... But The Essence of the Message is the Same.

On my Block...

2010-01-06T21:46:00.009+07:00

It takes something major to wake me out of my blog coma, and that thing just happened tonight. I was in my apartment around 8:30PM when I started hearing a whole lot of barking...

Where I live in Khon Kaen, and throughout most of the city for that matter, dogs rule the town. They're treated so well that it's nothing to be eating lunch with a dog huddled up on top of the table next to you, or having to side-step another one that's sun-bathing in a sprawled out position on a narrow path. These soi (street) dogs are a trip. They're not all well-kept, but they are usually fed by somebody and they tend to roam and hold some sort of territorial ground, which they guard vociferously at night. I ride my bike around Khon Kaen, and I've quickly learned which streets to avoid if I want to steer clear of any trouble with the dogs. They haven't bitten me yet, but they love to have a go at cyclists - probably because they can keep up for a while...

So I was in my room, when I started hearing some dogs causing a raucous. It kept going for a minute, then two...and then turned into this full blown fight which sounded bad. I stepped out of my room (which is on the 2nd floor and faces away from the street) to see what was going on, and as I looked out of my door, I saw some of my neighbors peering out onto the street. I went back into my room, but the noise just got louder and more vicious. The suspense was killing me, so I walked down the balcony to look into the street and I saw this awful sight: one of the dogs on my street, Bon, was being attacked by a pit bull on a leash and led on by it's owner. It was just nasty - Bon was backpedaling, crying, and bloodied as the pit bull kept biting into his flesh, and the owner of the pit showed no signs of pulling the beast back. Most of the neighbors were out in the street by now; some were trying to pull Bon out of the pit's grip, while others yelled at the pit's owner to fall back. The other neighborhood dogs were also out and I just imagined them crying out for the sake of their friend, begging the pit bull to let go. It really was surreal, and I was genuinely scared and horrified by the brutality that I was witnessing.

After a few seconds, the pit bull's owner pulled the leash hard and walked his dog back down the street like nothing happened. Heartless bastard. All this time I just stood frozen on the balcony, and I decided to go out into the street. Am I a coward for only coming out when the coast was clear? Why didn't I go down there to help stop this? In the street, a bunch of the neighbors were out and people seem pissed, confused, some were laughing - I'm not even sure what happened anymore. I asked a neighbor what went down. She explained that the pit's owner was pissed off that Bon kept barking at him while he was walking his dog down our street, and so just unleashed the pit to teach Bon a lesson. I walked further up the street and all I saw were bloodstains...and Bon doused in red.

Now, I'm an animal lover, but I'm not always the most comfortable person around them. I get jumpy around birds, I don't find monkeys cute (they can be mean, yo), and it bothers me sometimes when dog and cat owners spend more on their pets than they'd ever spend to help a human being in dire need. But we all value things differently, and having rarely had pets in my lifetime, I sometimes lose focus of the loyal companionship that pets offer to their owners. This night really made me think about my views on animals. Bon is my dawg (OK, dog), and in his own little way has helped me feel more at home in my community here in Thailand. I've shared a drink with his owner and a couple bites of a tuna sandwich with Bon; he's walked side by side with me to my apartment at the end of a tiring day; he's even come out to my defense (and called the cavalry) when I've been followed by other dogs on my way home. Seeing him bloodied, whimpering, and limping, just tore me up. I couldn't believe that a supposed dog lover could act so savagely to another pet, and for what...to satisfy an ego fix? Damn.

Yet, even in this sad situation, it was amazing to see the community come together. I stood shoulder to shoulder with my Thai neighbors as they voiced their frustrations. I actually got to see Thai people ANGRY (although it was still pretty toned down) and I loved it!! Little kids awoke from their slumber to see what was up, and then to play around when things cooled down. Grandma's laughed at the intensity with which I was following the discussions, even though I hardly understood a word. The best part of the night for me was when the punk with the pit came back and tried to "explain" why things got so messy. I stood there and watched his exchange with Bon's owner. In the heat of all the yelling, I caught the gaze of Bon's owner and he gave me this golden look which to me said "I know you've got my back, Frank."

Everything is everything fa sheezy...

A Hell of a Life!

2009-11-09T22:12:00.004+07:00

So, I was up late last night watching some music videos (big up to Channel [V]), when the VJ mentioned something about T.I.'s new song. I thought he was past the times and alluding to "Remember Me" with Mary J. Blige (which apparently was produced and filmed before he went to jail), and took no real notice. That's until I heard THIS banger!!! Damn, I thought T.I. was in jail!! In the 5 months that he's been in in prison he's either released or been featured in about 5 videos. The reality of going to jail must've really stirred up the creative juices of T.I. and his camp; I mean, Paper Trail itself was penned while on house arrest awaiting his jail sentence, so I guess he's been thinking big for a while.

I showed the video to my sister, Abena, and her response to it was perfect:

"oh...and when i was watching the video, i just assumed that it was a compilation video that someone had made, you know since he's still in jail and all...until i noticed his mouth moving perfectly to the words...dang! did he have that much foresight to record a video and song BEFORE he got locked up?? homie is smart...jail is making him so creative haha...maybe thats the way to revive the music industry right now...send them all to jail and see what happens...lil wayne is next!"

Funny story: While waiting to start class today, one of my students came up to me and asked me to go to the bathroom. Why? "I have diarrhea!!!" she said, pointing to her stomach. I tried to hold back my laughter but it came spurting out in fits. This excuse is actually very common amongst students, but I can't figure out whether it's used because of legitimate cases of diarrhea or, given the difficulties of understanding the nuances of the English language, as a way of saying "I need to poop." Either way, it's always hilarious. So, I said yes to her request, and she told me that she'd be back in 20 minutes. 20 minutes?!?! What kind of diarrhea was she on??

...Real talk, true story.

A Word From the Children of Poverty

2009-11-08T15:52:00.003+07:00

Something I wrote a while back:

We fightin', we scratchin', we dealin', we pantin'
we live on dirt roads, we don't live in the Hamptons
Our lives are a struggle; we beg and we share it
and yet at the end of the day-no merit,
No credit, we cheap, what we find we keep,
and when we find nothin', together we weep

We look in yo eyes, to find some remorse
WHAT, fifty-five cents while you driving a Porsche?
You act like you care, you pulling yo share,
but yet you can't help us when we in despair

Do we seek yo sympathy, what do you think?
I'm screaming so loud, I think I need a shrink
and still we caught up in this life of the poor
while you on lush golf courses, screaming out FOUR!!!!

We ain't here to make you feel angered or dissed,
Just wanna make light of the fact we exist,
So next time you spend on something you don't need
Right under yo eyes is someone you can feed

Farewell to Malaysia

2009-10-30T16:41:00.016+07:00

So, my trip to Malaysia ended on a couple high notes which made the trip one to remember. First, I got to hang out with my friend Mun’s dad, who gave me an excellent tour of Melaka and introduced me to the famed and fabled Strait of Malacca – the pivotal crossroad to Asia in the Indian Ocean trade routes. Mun, when I told her that I was in her city, Kuala Lumpur, set me up to meet her father, and, being the awesome friend that she is, didn’t disappoint me at all. Uncle Daniel picked me up and drove me two hours to Melaka to check out the once epic city, now etched in the side margins of the books of history. Being a history buff, when I found out that I was coming to Southeast Asia, there were two places that I absolutely felt like I had to visit before I left: the Straits of Malacca and Angkor Wat. Thanks to the benevolence of Mun, and particularly her father (who is so cool, that he popped his collar as we endured the blazing sun on our tour around the city), I was able to accomplish one of my goals (although, in hindsight, I had already seen part of it in Penang). The strait itself is not particularly impressive – it’s just another body of water, and a slight letdown – but the history behind it, and that of Melaka, is fascinating.

Rich in a history that has included Portuguese, Dutch, British, Chinese, and Indian influences, along with the indigenous Malay flavor, the little city is a real treat for lovers of history and tourists alike. Some of Melaka’s attractions include: the narrow streets of the Jonker Walk, lined with boutiques and restaurants installed in centuries-old buildings which offer a throwback to the colonial era; the bright yellow, flower adorned, rickshaw/tricycles that pick up tourists and bump obnoxiously loud Lady Gaga and such around the city; the subtle charm of A’Famosa fort; the unique story of the Portuguese Malaysians; and the melting pot of tasty foods (chicken rice and cendol-a great dessert-in particular) which surprise and delight you. It is quite a special place. I even got to see a group of Malay policewomen performing choreographed dance routines on the sidewalk. Excellent!

The next day, Uncle Daniel picked me up to check out his restaurant, Monte’s, in KL, where a consultant chef was preparing some new cuisine for the revamped menu. I got treated to some good (I guess…I’m not the biggest wine connoisseur) Chilean wine, beef with pumpkin sauce (fantastic), and a Hershey’s chocolate cake. Uncle Daniel knows what’s UP!!

The second significant event that really made my trip special was getting to see Akon live in concert. And, boy, was it live! The man pumped up an initially lackluster and timid crowd (definitely by my standards) to the point that people would've given him the shirts of their backs...actually that's what he did, and many others reciprocated. The coolest part of the night, other than my near-50 year old uncle Cliff jammin’ hard to "I Wanna Make Love..." was when Akon, after diving into the audience 4 times already, decided as his finale to crawl (yes, on his hands and knees) above the audience from the stage to the very back of the venue. CRAZY!!! I've never seen an artist that passionate about his fan base. As the Malaysian security guards were trying to keep him from his act, Akon balked "Securrrity, why are you holding me back?! I'm trying to get to my people!" Epic! After he finished, he serenaded the crowd with a brilliant performance of "Mama Africa," which made me so happy to be African.

Although I prefer traveling and sharing experiences with others, for a trip undertaken by myself, I couldn’t have asked for anything better.

"So much love to share..."

Selamat Datang!

2009-10-22T02:47:00.012+07:00

I’m back…with a vengeance. Not really, but I am in a different country, though. I’m in the 3rd week of a month long semester break, and after much difficulty in attaining a visa to go to China, I settled for Malaysia instead. I say settled, but really it’s been an absolute bargain. I love Malaysia! Let me tell you about the country: Selamat Datang (Welcome)! Sitting partially on a peninsula off the Strait of Malacca, an important trade passage which links the Indian and Pacific Oceans, as well as Borneo, Malaysia has historically been a magnet for cultural diversity, and the country does not disappoint in displaying its eclectic and multiracial culture. It’s incredible: Ethnic Malays, Chinese, Indians, Arabs, Africans, and more, all in one place, attempting to interact with each other as best as they can. Coming from a nation as homogeneous as Thailand (at least racially, although there is a lot of diversity), I’ve not felt this much at home in a few months. It also helped that I came to visit some good family friends and some PiA fellows, and happened to link up with two other teachers from Khon Kaen since I’ve been here. Malaysia has been very kind to me.

I started off in Kuala Lumpur (KL), the commercial capital of Malaysia, home to my uncle Cliff (a Brit) and auntie Enna (a Tanzanian), who perfectly reflect the diverse nature of the country. Kuala Lumpur is an amalgam of activity that is just striking to your senses. It is not uncommon to meet a Nigerian transvestite/ladyboy bargaining for Ray-Ban sunglasses with an Indian Malay in Chinatown while grubbing on a whopper. I encountered this canvas of events, not exactly in that order, but was insanely awestruck by all that I was witnessing. KL, for a major regional capital, is surprisingly structured, neat, and walkable. There’s a compact city center, which is lively and offers a lot of attractions; the foods are culinary explosions in your mouth; and I found people very approachable and more eager to get to know me, which is refreshing when compared to the timidity of some Thais. Since Islam is the state religion of Malaysia, there a lot of Islamic influence in the architecture of the city – and I have an affinity for Islamic architecture. All this combined with the fact that a lot of people speak English greatly influenced my perception of the city. (Pictured above are the Petronas Towers, followed by the old railway station and Batu Caves)

Next, I visited Penang, an island off northern Malaysia and on the Strait of Malacca, which is a cultural and historical throwback to Malaysia’s days (actually 100s of years) under colonial rule, most noticeably by the British. In Penang, I visited Alex and Aggie, also English teachers at a university in Penang through PiA, and really cool kids. I was also lucky enough to meet up with two teachers from Khon Kaen (where I work in Thailand), Diana and Anna, with whom I linked up with in KL and followed to Penang; they were my travel partners, as Alex and Aggie were busy at work. On the island, we went on a great hike in the national park which ended at Turtle Beach, so named because that’s where turtles come out at night to lay and bury their eggs (although, no turtles were sighted). We then took a boat to another beach, this time Monkey Beach (no monkey, but iguanas were spotted), before heading out of the park. We also spent some time in the old colonial district of Georgetown, and toured the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion (or the Blue House), a renovated 19th century home of a Chinese mogul, dubbed the Rockefeller of the East, who built a vast business empire throughout Asia. The mansion was one of many that he owned all around the continent, and the home of wives 2 and 7, I believe, out of 8. Penang was a cool cultural experience, made better by the fact that I was able to interact and travel with friends that I really enjoyed being around.

Malaysia is a very interesting country. As I mentioned, it is super diverse, but there are some real issues underlying the social utopia that it’s made out to be. A part of me feels like the country is living a lie that is snowballing out of control. Some problems are really in need of mending, like giving preferential EVERYTHING to ethnic Malays, while not really catering much to the Chinese and Indian communities, which make up the two biggest minority groups in Malaysia. For example, if you're Indian Malay, you can't ever aspire to be the president of a university, and Chinese schools are not given as much money as schools that teach ethnic Malay kids, leading many Chinese to set up segregated private schools for their children. There's a certain glass ceiling, which is meant to keep "foreigners" from dominating social/economic spheres, but it's straight up discrimination.

Historically, non-ethnic Malays have dominated the peninsula for many centuries. Malaysia was colonized by the Siamese (Thais), Portuguese, the Dutch, and the English. And Chinese, Indian, and Arab traders have had a long history here because of the important role of Malay spices and other prized goods in the Indian Ocean trade routes. After Malaysia got its independence in the late 1950s, a large scale effort was made to put the country firmly under the control of ethnic Malays. Thus, the educational, commercial, housing, etc., sectors (and even tax payments) were all structured to cater first to Malays, and then to others. The result of this policy is an unsettling racial segregation that I find very detrimental to the country’s image as an oasis of diversity. So, although there’s a tremendous amount of culture sharing – you can go to an Indian restaurants and find Chinese and Malays also eating there – what I didn’t see very often were the different races eating together, or dating each other, or going to school together (outside of universities). In effect, what the ruling Malays in the government are trying to do is prevent “outsider” races, especially the Chinese, who hold incredible power in places like Singapore and Thailand (although in Thailand I find the Chinese better integrated with ethnic Thais and Thai society), from dominating the politics, the economy, and the media. This is understandable when considering how little control the Malays themselves have had over their own territory in the past 600 years, but I find it unfortunate that people are deliberately made into second-class citizens in a country in which they’ve had roots for centuries; and as a professional, it must be frustrating to be unable to reach the apex of your field in the country that you call home.

And yet, what I do like about Malaysia, although it frustrates me, is that, unlike in the US, where 2nd generation immigrants quickly lose their cultural identity and take up a general “American” social identity, mentality, and speech, here it’s not like that. Although everyone speaks Malay (which is a fusion of Southeast Asian languages, Sanskrit, and some Arabic, Portuguese, English, and Dutch words), I get the sense that Chinese Malay kids want to learn Mandarin (or maybe because their options are so limited, they are forced to learn/retain it in order to open up more doors for them in the future?), many Indian Malays still speak Hindi, Arab Malays practice Arabic, etc. People really make an effort to retain their old cultural values and lifestyles, which I think is great, but implies that there are roadblocks to full assimilation into Malaysian culture and forging a new identity out of all the diversity.

I say all these things and I’ve only been here for a week and a half, which means that I’m in no way an authority on matters Malaysian. These are all very, very rough observations that I just had to write down. Before I leave, I’m hoping to visit Melaka, the famed port city which was crucial to the Indian Ocean trade, and Uncle Cliff got us some tickets to see Akon in KL! So, I’ll be jamming my way out of Malaysia with some good tunes. I’ll take pictures.

Peace out. One.

Music

2009-08-18T11:43:00.003+07:00

Hey hey! So, I've been listening to a lot of interesting music lately and I wanted to share some of it with you. Most of these are old, but some are recognizable. Check out some of the African music...so good.

1. "Down" by Jay Sean feat. Lil' Wayne: This is very Enrique Iglesias-esque with it's thumping beats and repetitive hooks, but it's gets you going. Lil' Wayne's lines are epic: "Don't you ever leave the side of me/indefinitely, not probably/and honestly, I'm down like the economy." Haha! No matter what you think about him, he's incredibly witty and surprisingly intelligent.

2. "I Wish I Knew Natalie Portman" by K-os (pronounced Chaos) feat. Saukrates: You can never go wrong with a sample of Phantom Planet's California (the OC theme song). It's just timeless and it gives me nostalgic chills, just like one of my all-time favorite songs "Bittersweet Symphony" (here's a great soca version of the Verve's superhit). Despite the strange title of the track, maybe K-os was trying to channel some Fall Out Boy and their affinity for awkward titles, the song is a poignant, swagger-inducing, and yet, kind of mellow and eerie. And, it has nothing to do with Natalie Portman...unless, in some strange way, those adjectives I mentioned above are some characteristics inspired by the actress. If you like the Gorillaz (especially "Feel Good Inc."), you'll like this song.

3. "T.R.O.Y." (They Reminisce Over You) by Pete Rock and C.L. Smooth: This is the epitome of a great DJ/MC collaboration. T.R.O.Y. is classic, early 90s, cruising in your car, bumping your head to good music, music.

The next few tracks are some songs that I grew up listening to: great African songs made by some of the most incredible musicians/artists in the world.

4. "Agolo" by Angelique Kidjo: The energy, the imagery, and the mystery of "Agolo" makes for an incredible song. I don't know if Benin has ever had as great a cultural and musical ambassador as Kidjo.

5. "Show Me The Way" by Papa Wemba: This is English/Lingala fusion by the Congolese (DRC) artist is just fresh and innovative, and pleads for a connection with the listener.

6. "Sweet Mother" by Prince Nico Mbarga: How can you really enjoy a song that's 10 minutes long? That's what I first thought when I pulled out my dad's Prince Nico Mbarga (Nigeria) CD and started listening to it. This song was a jam when my parents were younger, and it's an ode to the women who brought us into this world and who care for us lovingly and endlessly. It's just one of those songs that you put on and just let go...just give it up; get on the dancefloor, enjoy the rhythmic beat, and move. The time flies and you barely notice.

Enjoy!

9.58!

2009-08-17T21:59:00.008+07:00

DAAAAMNNN!!! That's the first thing that came out of my mouth when I saw that Usain Bolt had crushed the 100 meter-dash record. 9.58 seconds?!?! I mean, how is that even possible? It's insane, it's other-worldly (It's Jamaican), it's...any and every glorifying, terrifying adjective you wish to use. Kanye said it best: It's Amazing! But for me, this was also a moment of self-reflection.

After my shock waned, I started thinking about time - time really flies by fast. Even when we look at the history of the "World's Fastest Man," we realize that time doesn't even let the men who broke the record enjoy it. Since 1960, the record has been broken over 20 times, with each man mercilessly blazing his way into the record books, and stamping his torrid spikes into the heels of history. Each man wants to be remembered, wants his ultimate achievement of athleticism and youth to live on forever, but it never lasts long.

I started thinking about how time has passed me by. I mean, I'm young. I'm 21 years-old and have so much life still left to live, God-willing. But it's hard to believe how fast things have moved. I remember certain stages in my life when I looked forward to a milestone. I reminisce:

I looked forward to my 10th birthday because I would be a decade old (WOW!!). That just felt unreal to me, and Nov. 2, 1997 couldn't come soon enough. That day, my dad gave me a $100 bill, and although I saw it and felt it for only a day, I knew that in some bank account in time and space I had a Benjamin waiting for me - I felt so proud, and there no better feeling to a son than to be entrusted by his father with a huge sum of money at such a young age.

The year 2000 was another period that is etched in my memory. The world was entering a new era, a new millenium, Y2K was on everybody's lips...and 2000 would be the year of my 13th birthday! This was the year that I'd become a teenager - no more pre-teen woes for me, buddy, my voice would finally stop cracking. I remember so well the anticipation for 2000.

Turning 20 was yet another big deal. I would be out of my teenage years, and suddenly be more responsible for myself than I'd ever been. My dad promised me a decade earlier, that every ten years he'd multiply that $100 by 10...he lied.

But now I'm 21...and I don't really have a milestone to look forward to, yet I find Father Time whizzing by me in his Lamborghini, with two hot girls in the back, chuckin' deuces. And although this image sometimes (shoot...many times) worries me (why can't I be in that car?), I know I'm going to be alright. I believe that we're put on this Earth for a reason, and every day we are given opportunities to do something with ourselves, to make something of ourselves, and to influence somebody positively through our words and our actions. Those are the things I live for, and those are the things that make life interesting. It's all a matter of how you use your opportunities, and about whether you choose to live by faith and not by fear.

I don't know about you, but I'm gonna try my hardest to take hold of those opportunities, and run as fast as I can. Yeck, maybe one day I'll break 9.58. If you don't believe me...ask Kevin Garnett: "ANYTHING IS POSSIBBBLLLEEEE!!!!"

Damn homie!!!

2009-08-14T00:37:00.001+07:00

Hilarious article: I love Thailand!

Here's to good health.

2009-08-14T00:07:00.003+07:00

I took parts of this post from an email I sent to some friends not too long ago. I think it's pretty funny:

In terms of health, I've really been blessed since I've been here. The only big problems I've had were 1) a monster spider (I think) bite on my left cheek which left a thumb-sized bulge on my face (this was around the second week I was here), 2) a tingly feeling in my left arm that lasted a few weeks (I think it was from some bug bite as well), and 3) a killer headache 3 weeks ago which really shut me down, but, luckily, it was a one-day thing. Overall, I've been good though, and I those are just issues that you have to deal with in a tropical country; the locals definitely get it a lot worse than I do, so I'm not complaining.

I'm actually happy that I'm not in the U.S. during this whole swine flu fever time. It's crazy over here, but the issue often seems like a light-hearted affair at times, although I don't know if it should be. A few weeks ago in one of my classes, I had 6 kids out: 2 were just MIA, 2 had high fevers, 1 had H1N1 (swine flu), and the other had bird flu...AND, the kid who told me about the student who had swine flu had JUST recovered from it himself. I rolled up to that class one day to a sight of 40 students ALL wearing disposable masks, looking like some straight-up ninjas!! It was so weird, and yet silly; every time a student wanted to talk, s/he would slip the mask off his/her face, which pretty much cancels out any deterrent effect the mask would have, right? Plus, I really don't know how effective masks are in stopping the spread. With a few exceptions, it doesn't seem like people take many precautions against swine flu: I don't see cats whipping out their hand sanitizers at lunch (although in Bangkok they handed you some before going onto the Skytrain/Metro), don't see students rushing to the bathroom to wash their hands, or people restraining themselves from picking their noses in public. But, some students are making the best of the situation and putting their own style on their masks.

To deal with the swine flu scare, the university brought students and teachers from the many sections of the course into a huge room, turned off the AC, handed out a bunch of masks, and the health officials told everyone to avoid being in the same room with many people. Haha!!! I missed this meeting, but that's just how ridiculous the whole thing is. The second the health experts left, the students asked if we could turn the AC back on...and life went on. It's a serious issue, but not really that serious. I feel like in the States people are freaking out more than they are here, but I might be wrong. I assume that I'll be good when it comes to H1N1, because with all this direct contact with it here, I should have been in trouble by now. I'll have to keep my fingers crossed...and avoid hanging out with this kid.

Big, Bad Ajarn (Teacher) Frank

2009-08-11T22:20:00.008+07:00

Today, I inadvertently laid the smack-down on some students and I wanted to share what happened:

I have a class of 1st year medical students and I absolutely love them; they're smart, witty, funny, they engage me, I make fun of them, I throw markers at kids who come in late, etc. -- it's all fun. I enjoy teaching the class, and I think they are fond of me. So, tomorrow's Mother's Day aka the Queen's birthday (FYI: Thailand has a very influential royal family, although the family isn't as engaged in the political scene as it once was), and as with many of these random Thai holidays (which are often, and freakin awesome!! Thais love their holidays), I get alerted far later than everybody else. It's usually the students who'll mention something, then I ask a member of the faculty and they confirm it, a couple of days before the actual event; I've had a whole week of a class canceled on one day's notice. So, because tomorrow's Mother's Day, one of my medical students, Berm, rolls into my office and asks if we can have class canceled today. He says that all the medical students and it seems like only 3 kids will actually be around; the rest of them were already home or were planning to go home early. I'm sitting there thinking, "Shoot, I get to go home early today!!!" but I'm a bit skeptical, so I don't give him a definitive answer. I just told him to show up and if we didn't have enough students, I'd cancel class. In fact, I had no intention of teaching.

Class starts at 1PM, so around 12:30 I start walking to the Faculty of Medicine without my backpack or any teaching material. I usually ride my bicycle there, since the van they provide us to the Fac. of Medicine usually arrives at our faculty (Humanities and Social Sciences) kind of late, but this morning it rained heavily so I decided to take a songtaoh into school. I get closer to the Fac. of Medicine and I see a few of my students walking around here and there. Some of them caught a glance at me and had that guilty "Oh Shit!" expression on their faces when a teacher catches you skipping class, and others let out a semi-audible "Ooooyyyyyyyyyy!!" which is the Thai equivalent of "Maaaan" or "Shoooooot," or any other stretched, often nonsense, word used to express surprise or agitation. I sensed that something was up.

I got to my classroom and just chilled for the next 10 minutes waiting for 3, 4 kids to trickle in. Over the next few minutes though, a full 30 (out of 37) of them show up, and I'm a bit pissed. I was clearly lied to, and these kids were slyly trying to take advantage of my niceness. I gotta give them props for trying, I mean, I've done my share of bullshitting in my life, but the teacher in me just couldn't believe how bold they were in trying to con me. I tell myself that I want to teach them a little lesson on honesty and not lying/cheating, so I sit in silence for a little while, then get up and say something along the lines of: "So, I was told that there would be only 3 students in class today, but almost everyone's here. Either you think I'm stupid or you lied. You see I'm a very nice guy, but I don't like lies, and you lied, and I'm disappointed...blah, blah, blah." I finish off with a dry: "That's all I have to say, have a good day," wave, and walk out like a G! I have to say, my theatrics were on point... Silence....nobody moved. The second those words came out of my mouth I started realizing what I had done: I'd crushed these kids. Thai kids are taught from a very early age to respect and pay deference to authority and I had let them know that they let me down. Plus, here I am - big, bearded, and when I put on my "angry face," I can look pretty mean...I probably scared the crap out of them. I didn't feel good about it, and I knew that they felt so much worse.

I was walking back to my faculty, when I heard 5 of my students calling out my name. Two were on motorcycles, and 3 were on foot, chasing me down - it looked like a movie scene. They came to explain themselves and apologize for lying. I told them it was OK, that I wasn't mad, but that they shouldn't do it again. Next, I'm in the canteen (outside cafeteria area) back in my faculty, and another 3 students come up to me begging for forgiveness. This group includes Berm, the kid who had told me that everyone had gone home and that I should consider canceling class, who just looks terrible. The whole time I think he was holding back tears. I tell them that I've already forgotten the whole thing, that they should just enjoy Mother's Day (how cruel am I to do a thing like that before Mother's Day? 30 moms are gonna be worried by how depressed their children look), and that I'd see them in class on Friday. I try to smile and be kindhearted the whole time because I didn't mean to tear them down so badly. They leave, but I still sense that they're feeling down.

Before coming to Thailand I had been warned about how sensitive Thai students could be, but I definitely didn't realize how bad it could get. Criticism, especially from a foreigner, can just be damning, and students particularly are nervous about being singled/called out in front of their peers; in a society so strongly rooted in community networks and the essence of inter-connectivity, being blatantly individualized can be the worst feeling in the world, and can cause one to lose face. I guess I'll have take it easy on my kids next time so that I don't crush their spirits, but at least they won't try to bullshit me again, that's for sure. I feel like I need to bake them a cake or something to show them that I'm really not that upset. We'll see how Friday goes.

Hope you enjoyed the tale of Big, Bad Ajarn Frank. Take it easy.

I'm Baaacckk!!!

2009-07-29T22:37:00.003+07:00

My month-long hiatus has ended, and I have finally decided to write something. Forgive my absence, but I've just been pretty uninspired (although plenty has happened since I last wrote). I just get back from school most days and numb my mind with the anesthetic of television until I have no desire to do ANYTHING productive. Today, I shut off the TV, bumped some good music (Kid Cudi's Make Her Say and Cheb Khaled's Aicha were some favorites), and began to excavate my brain of interesting experiences in the past month.

Then I thought, "I really haven't said much about Khon Kaen, have I?" Nope. I haven't talked much at all about where I live and how I've been living. So, I want to give you an idea of what Khon Kaen is like, and compare it to the great metropolis that is Bangkok (I guess that means that I'll have to tell you a bit about Bangkok as well). Here it goes:

Khon Kaen is charming city in Northeast Thailand. It's population is in the 100,000s, but Khon Kaen province itself holds nearly 2 million people. Khon Kaen is the capital of Isaan, the Northeastern region of Thailand; but for such an important administrative center, it knows how to keep its cool. And its a Don Cheadle kind of cool, as opposed to Denzel or Will Smith for example - understated and underrated, but when he nails that scene, your eyes just gleam with amazement and all you can say is "Wow!" That's Khon Kaen for you. It's geographically flat and uninteresting (it sits on a plateau). Economically, it's nowhere close to a bustling city and after 10PM most places are closed, but people are always on their hustle, especially the street vendors. Scholastically, it has one the best universities in Thailand (Khon Kaen University), and it's youthfulness gives it a college town feel. The social scene is very limited. There are only three "clubs" in the city (Ubar, Rad, and Tawandaeng), but at night, almost every restaurant or bar plays live music and people (usually men) heartily drink beer. The scene definitely picks up on the weekends, with more people out on the town, but despite its limitations the party scene grows on you: it's quaint and predictable, but you keep going back to it every weekend. Politically, Khon Kaen is a pretty vital part of Thailand and is a crossroads between Northern Thailand and Central (Bangkok). About 1/3 of the population of Thailand resides in Isaan, and the region is the poorest and funkiest part of the country. Isaan is culturally strongly tied to Laos, and the Isaan language itself is more similar to Lao (the language of Laos) than Thai. The people of Isaan have a strong cultural heritage and are proud of it. This makes Khon Kaen an interesting cog in the giant wheel of the Thai political sedan. Anything that happens in Khon Kaen affects the country as a whole.

KK is an authentic (in the sense that you actually have to know some Thai in order to get around), unassuming Thai city, but you can tell that it's on the verge of something bigger. A new, massive mall is being built that, apparently, should compare with some of the behemoth shopping complexes in Bangkok (and it'll show movies with English subtitles too!!!), more and more farangs (foreigners) are popping up in the city, and interesting new businesses are springing up everywhere (I went to a "hip-hop" shop the other day that sells oversized shirts, fitted caps, and the coolest, acid-induced, multicolored high-tops I've seen in my life). This all goes to show that Khon Kaen is perhaps losing it's innocence, it's cool, and turning more and more into a Bangkok (think New Orleans on crack). I really hope not.

I like KK just the way it is. I especially like the people. Khon Kaeners, when you get to know them, are some of the most graceous, generous, and friendly people in the world. You never have to ask twice for a ride, you get regularly bombarded with snacks and fruits from colleagues and friends, and invitations to join in a meal, or in a drink, are as ubiquitous as sculptures of The Buddha. People just really want you to feel comfortable, and they'll go to some lengths to make you like them. In my short time in Bangkok, I didn't find people to be quite as accommodating, which is actually understandable. Bangkok is a big city which caters to tourists from all over the world, most of them uninterested in the people and the culture and more interested in the elephants, pad Thai, the seedy nightlife, and the mind-blowing temples. Bangkok is also a hub for Thai people from all over the country. It's the New York City of Thailand: If you can make it there, you'll make it anywhere! So, lots of people (especially young men) leave the hometowns for Bangkok in the hopes of finding riches and/or opportunities to support their families. This creates a city of multiple personalities - the naive, the disgruntled, the angry, the overwhelmed, the awestruck, the starstruck, and the desperate... all vying for a role in the great theater that is the "Venice of the East." In this environment, people become a little less friendly, start guarding their privacy a bit more, try to squeeze out one more buck (or baht, in this case) out of a customer, and become more wary about who to trust. That's how you get by.

Now, I'm not bashing Bangkok. In fact, I think its a mesmerizing, cosmopolitan city, and one of my favorites to visit. But, like many big cities (New York for example), it often gets a reputation for being unkind (the traffic and pollution doesn't help either). A fairer characterization of Bangkok is: complex. But I have to admit that I prefer the simplicity of life that Khon Kaen affords me. People are more at ease and comfortable in the environment. There's actually an environment here, with more greenery and less concrete than in Bangkok. Yeah, I don't see too many people who look like me. Yeah, it can be very difficult finding anyone to actually have a conversation with. But this has forced me to adapt, to try to understand better, and to work on my nonverbal, orangutan arm-swaying communication more than ever. I'm digging Khon Kaen, and I think it's loving me back a bit more everyday.

...What I'm not digging though, is this leak in my ceiling. If I have to wake up again at 4am to clean my floor, I'm gonna go ape on somebody...

Why I Smile

2009-06-19T04:33:00.000+07:00

The last blog reminded me of something I wrote a little while ago. I hope you enjoy it:

Why I Smile

I love to smile. I've been asked why I'm always smiling, but I say that you can never smile enough. I smile because I'm free - free to live on my own accord and to love whom I choose. I choose to celebrate my love for liberty and for mankind through my 32 ivory brilliance of dental anatomy. It is my purest expression of joy...you should try it sometime.

A simple and honest smile has the power to melt down barriers between races, warm up cold faces, and open up closed spaces. The smile is the God-given panacea for the fear of the unknown, human insecurity, and hopelessness. It excites the lukewarm heart, penetrates the deeply-planted soul, and eases the turbulent mind. It is the most subtle, and yet the boldest, gift to give, and the happiest to receive. A smile is a glimpse into the core of man - his character, his values, and his passions; it is the keyhole through which we view the meaning of intimacy and human inter-connectivity.

I love to smile because I love to see YOU, and I want to see you happy. I smile because I treasure your friendship, I love your style, I think you're hilarious, and oh, I find you so beautiful. I smile because I see you frustrated, depressed, and stressed, and yet I know that it doesn't have to be that way. I smile to help you achieve your full potential, to maximize your happiness utility, to help you appreciate the simple beauty of life. I smile because I love.

So, I express my love for you with my canines, incisors, and molars. Accepting with humility the power in my jaw, and with an agenda to elicit joy. And I encourage you to smile more often, and let happiness trickle from your mouth and into the inner beings of those around you.

Smile!

Smile :)

2009-06-19T03:11:00.000+07:00

They don't call Thailand the "Land of Smiles" for nothing. People are always eager to flash this irrepressible smile upon seeing you. In my opinion this happens for a few reasons: (1) In my case, they're probably just so puzzled and mesmerized by me that they can't help but to grin. I am absolutely a novelty here; I get gawked at, laughed at, and pointed at all the time. It's crazy when people see me - their eyes light up and they have to nudge someone (or the air) to make sure that they ACTUALLY are seeing what's in front of them. Although sometimes I get pissy about it, I embrace it because I think it's innocuous. Such reactions should be expected because, I mean if I were Thai, I'd also be wondering what this big, black, Ghanaian kid riding a yellow bicycle was doing in Khon Kaen.

There aren't many black people around, and white people are a more common "farang" (foreigner) face to see. My appearance here must be shrouded in so much mystery for the citizens of the city that in their nervousness, interest, shock, and desire to know more, but fear of not knowing how to speak or approach me, utilize that very diplomatic tool of a smile to mask how they feel. And although I recognize that some people's laughter might contain some malicious intent, I'm filled with so much joy when through a shared smile I can begin a dialogue with a random person that, by the end of the conversation, leads to a dinner invitation and a cell phone number swap - that just makes my day. I'm definitely feeling that people are getting used to me though, and things are normalizing.

(2) Thais don't like tension. A smile is the best way to break the ice. When a situation is getting tense, all you need to do is make someone smile and it loosens everybody up. I think that Thais smile as a means to remind themselves and others that life doesn't have to be as stressful, or nerve-wracking, or conflict-ridden. You have to be able to take it easy, and nobody takes is easy like Thais. I'm not gonna generalize and call a whole culture lackadaisical, but time is just another word here, not a planner by which to manage your life.

In this sense, Thais are very much like Africans, and I recognize a lot of "African traits" in people. When a Thai person says that they'll see you in 10 minutes, don't expect them to come for another 40. When, on my first day of class, I was buggin' a bit because no students showed up to my class, my office partner, Pi Piyaporn (another English teacher at KKU), just said, "Oh, don't worry about it, the students didn't know what class to go to, we'll figure it out later." You can take a comment like that as a sign of how disorganized and chaotic the society might be, but I see it as a sign of how relaxed and chill everything is. If they're not stressing, I'm not stressing; hakuna matata, baby.

(3) The last reason why I think Thais smile so much is that they are generally very friendly and happy people. Thais pride themselves on being hospitable and making sure that guests are catered for. Thais will go out of their way to make people feel comfortable.

In the short time that I've been here there have been occasions where public transportation has been difficult to find at night. On one such night, while I was looking for a tuk-tuk (a motorcyle taxi) in the rain, an old man who sold flowers on a motorcycle, offered me his umbrella, his cell phone, and his friendship in a little under minute. He probably would have given me his motorbike too, had he not had a heap of flowers stacked on it, and had he not been waiting to drive his wife back home. And just last night, after getting stranded in another part of the city, a couple sitting out on the sidewalk, sensing our distress, offered us a ride home free of charge. This made me wonder whether Thais are as nice to each other as they are to foreigners, but if they are THIS nice to outsiders, they must be decently cordial with their countrymen, right?

So the lesson I'm learning here is: just smile. It's one of the warmest gestures you can show a person, and it expresses a joy for life. We should all smile more.

Hit me up!

2009-06-19T01:02:00.001+07:00

Hit me up with your feedback and thoughts. If you want to contact me, I'm on Facebook and I can hook you up with my email address, Skpe name, and cellie number; if you want to send me anything (not that you have to, of course), I can give you my address as well.

Until next time. B.ez.

Allow me to reintroduce myself, my name is:

2009-06-18T23:57:00.000+07:00

Frank Hagan-Brown. I felt the need to explain why I am in Thailand and my reason for blogging. Many of you know me, but some of you don't, so here's a synopsis of the events that brought me to the Land of Smiles:

Sometime last fall, I was desperately searching for something to do after my graduation from university in May when a Google search for "internships and fellowships" landed me on the Princeton in Asia (PiA) website. It looked flashy enough, it sounded prestigious, and, most importantly, it offered a temporary escape from the bewildering self-reflection on the state of my "passions" and questions about what job I could foresee myself doing in the future. Never a big soap opera fan, nor a soothsayer, I let the images of rickshaws and woks, rice-patties and Yao Ming, wisp me away into an Asian wonderland in which I held all the cards and didn't have to worry about life collapsing in on me.

You see, I had been carrying this weight on my shoulders which I couldn't seem to brush off. It comprised of an amalgamation of concerns - personal and family expectations, the lack of job opportunities in the States for a kid of my nationality and visa status, the desire to do well in school and not let the dreaded job-search engulf my life, and the sudden uncertainty of life coupled with the fear of failure - that got to me; even Atlas would've had a hard time with that balancing act. But PiA offered a convenient escape from all that stress, and I was immediately enticed by its allure. The website told me that I could apply to be a fellow through this program, with the option of teaching, working for a non-governmental organization or a non-profit organization, working with a business, or working for a media outlet. I was ecstatic! This was exactly what I wanted to do out of college: see a part of the world that I'd always wanted to visit and get paid doing it. With only two weeks left before the December 1st deadline, I printed out the application and started filling it out.

A month after the deadline, I received an email stating that I had been selected for an interview with PiA at Princeton University. I did some research into some Asian countries that I would want to work in for a year, and had my mind set on Vietnam. I am interested in international development, and I discovered that Vietnam had engaged in economic liberalization and cool economic and social development initiatives that went far in providing the poor with the essential elements of life and health. I believed that Vietnam would be the stepping stone from which I could spring into a career focusing on international development and its related fields. That was the vision that I tried to portray to my interviewers in Princeton, and I thought that they would buy it and offer me a position with an NGO somewhere in Vietnam. But life doesn't always work the way you want it to - sometimes it works even better.

Instead of Somewhere, Vietnam and an NGO, I got Khon Kaen, Thailand and a teaching post. When I heard back from Princeton toward the end of March, I was just psyched and relieved that I had actually found something to do this year (PiA was the only thing I had actually applied for, and I was a month and a half away from graduating - eeeekkkk!!!). I was also very excited and satisfied with my position. As a teacher, I would be able to help my students develop English speaking skills that could propel them to success in the future, and I could learn so much about Thailand from kids my age. Teaching would be a lot more laid back than a position wearing a business suit in an office with CEOs and TPS reports and Happy Hour. Not that I'm knocking that lifestyle - shoot, It'll be me someday - but teaching would offer me a more relaxed working atmosphere, and would allow me to connect with the people of Khon Kaen in a very special way. Plus, with semester breaks, midterm breaks, and national holidays all to my benefit, I could do some incredible traveling through Southeast Asia!! I made my mind up on the spot.

So, on May 30, 2009 at 10:05, I set off from Dulles Airport (TEFL certified and with a few days of teacher training in hand) on an 8 month journey to Asia that I trust to be one of the most exciting, humbling, challenging, and rewarding experiences of my life. I arrived in Khon Kaen 30 odd hours later (after stopovers in London and Bangkok), and in the 3 weeks that I've been here, everyday has blown me away. Thai culture is fascinating and perplexing, the food is OFF THE HOOK, and the people are some of the friendliest in the world. I live in an apartment close to Khon Kaen University, where I teach, and life is good. In the next few months I will try to share my thoughts and feelings and photos, and try to keep you entertained with some sketchy and not-so-sketchy stories.

Come ride with me!

Meaning of the blog title

2009-06-17T02:26:00.000+07:00

For those of you wondering what my blog title means, they are words from one of my favorite songs: "No Rest for the Weary" by Blue Scholars. The line goes, "So check the work ethic and the name, the lesson's my change but the essence of the message is the same."

I love that line because it's so true and perfectly reflects our shared humanity across the globe. Everywhere you go in this world you experience different cultures, meet new and interesting people, and engage in activities or see images so foreign to your worldview that sometimes it just blows your mind. Yet, although the lessons (i.e. those experiences, those people, those places, those activities) might change from place to place, the essence of the message (i.e. the intrinsic, indispensable, qualities that make us who were are), never changes...it's the same. We're all trying to get a hold of the basic elements for life (food, water, and shelter), we're all trying to ensure a better future for our progeny - our children, we're all trying to stay healthy, we're all trying to live lives free of tyranny and oppression, and even if we live as oppressed peoples, we try to live that narrow life to it's fullest.

Human beings are incredible creatures, and this song just speaks to our spirit, and the hope that we hold so deeply within us in the toughest of times - the spark that keeps us going despite all of life's troubles. "There's no rest for the weary, just another day grinding up stones til they turn into dust." Let's stay on our grind until that day when we won't have to grind no more.

Peace.

Tell mommy I'm sorry, this life is a party...I'm never growin' UP!!!

2009-06-17T01:41:00.001+07:00

So, today I rode by bicycle from downtown Khon Kaen to my apartment in Gantse Dan (a 20 minute ride) in the pouring rain...and I loved it!!! It was idiotic and I utilized some incredibly poor judgment on my part, but it was also one of the most magical, exhilarating, and terrifying experiences of my life! I was gunning my bike at breakneck speed (maybe not THAT fast, but I'll exaggerate here) with my backpack on, my helmet strapped tight, shoeless, in my work khakis, and reppin' the blue and orange of Virginia in a faded shirt, blazing the streets of Khon Kaen. Earlier in the night I had come inches from getting run over while crossing the deceptively named, enemy-to-all-bicycles, Mittapharb (Friendship) Road, where motorcycles, cars, and trucks mercilessly roar through the tarmac. I should've adamantly protested rekindling my rivalry with that "Friendly" road, especially after the skies opened up and the monsoonal rains came pouring down in droves, but I sucked in my fears and rode!!! Let me recapitulate this night a little for you:

I finished work/planning at Khon Kaen University, where I am an English teacher, around 7:30PM, and rode my bike downtown in order to make Tuesday Trivia/Quiz Night at Cheap Charlie's by 8. Cheap Charlie's is an establishment run by a Cockney British man where Westerners often congregate for a drink or some chatter; it's a lot of fun and we have become Tuesday night regulars there since coming to Thailand. Mid-way through Meredith (another Princeton in Asia teaching fellow in Khon Kaen) and I's valiant, but trivial, effort at winning the game (and after a couple of elephants came strolling down to the bar, mama elephant shrieking as it's child was being pimped out and made to perform tricks by Thai handlers trying to make a buck), the rains came down - and heavily. While we were wrapping up our night, I considered leaving my bike downtown and taking a tuk-tuk (a three-wheeled, open-sided motorcycle taxi) home, but I had just spend 100baht to play in the trivia (the regular participatory fee) and 270baht on a pizza and sodas, and I wasn't trying to get ripped off of 70+baht to get home. If you're lost in the monetary translation, $1 is approximately 30baht, and although I sound petty and pathetic for complaining about spending a grand total of $10 on entertainment and food, you start thinking cheaply once you've been in Thailand for a while. I mean, a good, filling meal could have cost me between 20 and 25baht at one of the nightmarkets (outdoor markets where vendors sell everything from pad Thai, grilled chicken, sushi, fresh fruits, and sweats, to sandals, trendy and colorful shirts, and Hello Kitty pillows!) peppered around the city, or at a nice roadside restaurant. When you put that in perspective, anytime you have to spend 300baht in one night you REALLY feel duped.

Also, I wanted to be able to ride my bicycle to school tomorrow. Before purchasing my bike, a bright yellow and black beauty, streaming with personality, I had been riding songtaohs (covered pickup trucks with two rows of seating on the bed, which run all through the city at 8baht per trip - they are the main form of public transportation in the city) regularly. As convenient and cheap as songtaohs are, the downsides of having to rely on them is that (1) the 8baht fee adds up over time, (2) they stop running after 7PM, and (3) they stick to a fixed route, thus giving you little opportunity for genuine exploration. A bicycle gives me a cheap alternative to the songtaoh and also offers me the freedom to roam the city as I choose. Most people in Khon Kaen (KK) get around on motorcycles or cars, but I have never ridden a legit motorcycle before and I'm too afraid to try my hand on one in these bustling and chaotic streets, and I can't afford a car. Although I hadn't ridden one in years, a bicycle sounded like a perfect idea, and mine hasn't failed me yet...So I didn't want to leave my bike downtown because I didn't want to spend more money on an "expensive" ride home, and I wanted to be able to utilize it tomorrow. Thus, after seeing Meredith off (she, smartly, took a tuk-tuk home), I strapped my umbrella to the back of my bike, took my dress shoes and socks off and put them in my backpack, rolled up my khakis, strapped my helmet on, and headed into the damp night...

It was one of those scintillating, adrenaline-pumping, WTF! experiences, and one of the most thrilling things I've done! I call it a magical experience because it was just so eerie and different; the rain, the flora, the roads, the lights, the architecture, all blended together to form this concoction of culture and emotion that I'd never felt before...it was incredible. As I was scurrying to get home safely, I couldn't help but pause a few times and just reflect on how awesome life is, and how blessed I've been to have this opportunity. When I got home, I pumped my fists a couple of times and just wanted to let out a scream: "Momma I made it!!!" Then I thought about how badly my mother would have berated me had she learned that I'd driven across a dangerous highway, in the rain, barefoot, and at 11PM in the third week of my stay in a country that I am not familiar with. So Mom, if you read this, I'm sorry. But your boy's taking care of himself and he's doing well. I'm in Thailand baby!!!!